- Before you buy or build any kitchen storage solutions, you should get a good idea of what you have that needs to be stored. Taking a detailed inventory of everything that you have is a good way to kick of your attempt at creating new kitchen storage solutions. This way you will know exactly what storage solutions need to be added based on what things still need a home.

- Now you need to look at how much space you have and look at different options for kitchen storage solutions that will suit those spaces. How much counter space do you have? How much drawer space do you have? Drawer organizers, cabinet organizers, lazy Susan style organizers, hanging wall racks and hanging pantry door racks are all ideal kitchen storage solutions, but they do not work for every kitchen.

- Shoving everything into cabinets is never an efficient way to do things, no matter how much space you have. More cabinet space or deeper pantry shelves simply means more room for efficient kitchen storage solutions, not more space to shove groceries and pots and pans and other things, where they will never be heard from again.

- Larger counter tops make for more under-counter storage. Many kitchen storage solutions involve racks with shelves or drawers that pull out, meaning you can fit more items into deeper storage areas without risking losing items in the very back simply because you cannot find them.

- Another solution for deep storage areas is "Lazy Susan" style storage, which involves racks that spin. This way, you can store a lot of different items on a single rack, and the rack will spin for easy and efficient access to everything. These are often used for spice racks and storing Tupperware and other plastic containers, but this is an excellent kitchen storage solution for everything in your kitchen.

- One excellent kitchen storage solution is to utilize the ceiling and higher walls when possible. Hang a fruit basket, but fill it with something else if you keep your fruit elsewhere. Keep measuring cups, measuring spoons and other implements in the different tiers of a fruit basket. Hang your pots and pans from the ceiling, as they're easier to take down than to dig out from a deep cabinet. Hang mugs from a rack on the wall to free up some space in your cabinets.

- If you have deep pantries, consider hanging racks on the insides of the doors for smaller products like spices, bullion cubes, boxes of rice, and other little things that get lost easily. These racks are built to make sure the doors still close, but they utilize a lot of unused space for a more efficient pantry.

Achieving efficient kitchen storage solutions is easy, and only takes a little bit of creativity to work with the space that you have.

Photo Credit: 1

Originally posted 2009-01-07 05:44:12. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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If you will be replacing your molding, you’ll need to decide how large you want to go. If your ceilings are a bit low, thick crown molding can make the room seem smaller. However, the right kind of decorative crown molding that is narrow will draw the eye upwards and make the room seem larger. It’s best to get a few samples and see which one you like best when you get them up on your walls.

Crown molding will usually come in either white, wood stain or unfinished. You’ll have to decide which look will fit your home best. If you are only replacing one room’s molding, you’ll want to try to match the new molding to the rest of the house as closely as possible. If you can’t find a close match, get unfinished molding so that you can stain it to match.

You’ll need to start by ripping out the old molding, whether you are fixing or replacing. This will require a ladder, a hammer and some gloves. You may also need a chisel to help get behind the molding if the hammer won’t do it. Make sure you are safely on the ladder and start on one end of the room. If you’re completely replacing the molding, it won’t matter if you crack the pieces when you’re taking them off. Otherwise, you’ll want to be very careful on this step.

Most crown molding is installed using simple carpentry nails and it will not be hard to remove. Place your hammer or chisel behind the molding, pulling it away from the wall a little bit and use this to lever the molding off of the wall. Keep an eye out for any nails that come free so that no one will step on them later.

If you’re fixing one piece, you’ll need to take down the entire length of molding for that wall. While it is possible to cut away the broken part, this rarely looks nice once you’re done. Remove the whole strip of molding and measure it twice. Now, get your new strip of molding and make sure that it is sized properly. If necessary, cut it to fit. You’ll need to get some new nails to complete your replacement or your repair.

Get back up on the ladder and start with one end once again. You’ll need to make sure that it is completely level before you start nailing. If necessary, have a friend hold the molding for you so that your hands are free for hammering. After putting in the nails, you’ll be all done!

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Originally posted 2008-09-22 05:10:48. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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• a level
• a hacksaw (just in case)
• screwdrivers of various sizes
• plenty of screws
• wood glue (in some cases)
• a sander or rough grade sandpaper
• vise grips
• a crowbar
• measuring tape
• a sledgehammer
• a power drill

Before you can install your new cabinets, you're going to have to rip out the old ones. This can actually be quite fun and it's a great way to get out some frustrations. Remove everything in the cabinets, and then take off the doors. If they are screwed into the wall, carefully remove the screws. If you are working with big cabinets, it's really helpful to have someone else on hand to help take it down from the wall. If not, make sure you have some way to catch those cabinets if they should come down when you are unscrewing them.

If you cannot remove the old cabinets easily, you may need to use that crowbar. Place the end of the bar behind the cabinets and lever outwards. It may take a few tries. If worse comes to worse, grab a sledgehammer and start pounding. Completely remove all the wood and any fittings for the old cabinetry before proceeding. If the wall looks a bit rough, you may want to sand it down to make sure that your new cabinets will sit flush.

Now that you have completely removed the old cabinetry, you're ready to get started with the new. Place them where you think they should go and then get out your level to make sure that they are even. Using your measuring tape so that you have the exact measurements before you start drilling. It is a lot easier to fix something during this stage than it is to try to fix crooked cabinets.

Take your time and make sure that everything is level. Once you're satisfied, you can start drilling. If your cabinetry came with any special installation instructions, please refer to these now. For your screws, you're going to want to make sure that they are rated to hold the weight of the cabinets. Most people prefer to countersink their screws for safety. Line up where you will need to drill and create holes in both the cabinetry and the wall to make it easier.

Then, attach your screws, countersinking if necessary and assemble your cabinetry. The whole process should take only a few hours, and less if you have help. There are several schools of thought if you're working with unfinished cabinetry. Many people prefer to sand, stain and varnish before installing. Others prefer to do this later, or sand and stain, then varnish after they're installed. It's up to you, but keep in mind that installation can cause nicks in your varnish.

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Originally posted 2008-08-12 05:01:50. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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1. Bleach.

This is probably the best and easiest way to quickly get rid of existing mildew. While it does smell very strong, it will usually bust through even the worst patches of mildew and help keep the area very clean. This is a very effective method, but not everyone likes to deal with bleach.

2. Antibacterial cleaners.

Any household cleaner that has an antibacterial element is usually very successful at cleaning up a mildew situation. Pinesol works wonders and there are a few other cleaners that can get the job done. You may also be able to find a special cleaner that is specifically made to address a mildew problem quickly.

Now, let’s go over what you shouldn’t use.

First and foremost, steam cleaners are pretty popular for areas that are exposed to a lot of water and humidity. However, when you hit a patch of mildew with a blast of steam, you are actually releasing all of those nasty little spores into the air. You don’t want those in your lungs, and by spreading them around the room, you may actually make the mildew problem worse.

So you know what cleans up mildew – how do you prevent it from happening in the first place?

In bathrooms, or wherever there is a lot of water, you’re running the risk of creating the ideal environment for mildew. These rooms are often quite humid and mildew can happen within a few hours. After your shower, spray down the entire tub or shower surfaces with a spray and leave on cleaner. This should be done every day and it can dramatically reduce mildew.

Next, you’ll want to find someway to vent out that humidity. You can open a window or even get a fan to suck the steam out of the room. Either way, the longer you let humidity hang around in a room, the greater your chances are of fostering mildew. When you get out of the shower, leave the bathroom door open for a few hours to let all of that steam dissipate. That’s one very easy method of preventing mildew.

If you have a room that is particularly bad you may want to consider adding a dehumidifier. This can be very useful in drying up the air so that mildew no longer has a fertile breeding ground. Just remember, if you’re putting it in the bathroom, make sure that it is away from any sources of water to avoid the risk of electrocution. You may also want to consider a whole house dehumidifier if your situation with mildew is particularly bad.

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Originally posted 2008-07-31 05:26:46. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Before you begin a wall texturing project, it is important to remember that this type of painting will not typically work over the type of wallpaper. So, if you want to make a décor change in a room in which the walls are currently wallpapered, you will first need to remove the wallpaper. In addition, some techniques can be a bit tricky to master; therefore, it is best to practice first on a piece of cardboard or posterboard before starting on the wall. With most texturing techniques, though, it is simple to wipe down the wall when you are unhappy with how the paint is looking and start again—as long as the paint is still wet, that is. Or, if the paint has already begun to dry, you can usually reuse the same texturing technique to cover any areas with which you are unhappy.

Three Easy Wall Texturing Techniques

1. Sponging

• Items needed: two shades of paint, paint glaze, sea sponge
• Technique: Paint the walls with two coats of your chosen base paint; let dry. Then, mix the top coat with the glaze. Working in small sections at a time, use the sea sponge to blot the mixed color on. Make sure to use a light touch; however, you can go back over and add more if desired.

2. Ragging

• Items needed: one shade of paint, glaze, paint roller, clean lint-free rags
• Technique: Apply two coats of base paint to the wall; let dry. Next, use the paint roller to apply glaze to a small area of the wall. Wad up a clean rag; then press it to the glazed wall and pull it off, removing some of the glaze as you do so. Rewad the rag each time you go to apply it to the wall. Continue to work in small sections of the wall until you have completed the entire wall.

3. Combing

• Items needed: one shade of paint, glaze, paint roller, paint comb
• Technique: This wall texturing technique is best done by two people. Apply two coats of the base color; let dry. Have one person use the paint roller to apply glaze to the wall. Before the glaze dries, the second person should use the paint comb. Starting at the top of the wall, comb straight down the wall, down the entire length. Combed panels may overlap a bit.

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Photo Credits: bdjsb7

Originally posted 2009-08-31 06:11:00. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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