With black and other forms of mold becoming an enormous problem for Americans, it has never been more important to make sure that your home is not a breeding ground. Mold is very harmful, and black mold in particular can be deadly. No one wants to go around breathing spores all day long, so finding ways to reduce your risk of having mold in your home is very important.

One of the biggest offenders when it comes to mold growth is the basement. Even if you have a finished basement, there are still risks for having excess moisture down there, and as such, the potential for mold. Dirt basements and under home crawlspaces should not be overlooked. Standing water can be a big problem with this type of basement, and you may never even know it is there.

So, what can you do to make sure that you’re not living over a health hazard? First, you will need to determine whether or not you have any damp areas in your basement. The best time to look is right after a rain storm. Go down to the basement and start feeling the walls, stopping every foot and a half or so to check. Don’t just rely on your visual skills, since there may only be slight dampness.

If you feel any sort of water, condensation or you can actually see puddles or water stains, the time to take action is right now. Most homes that are in a flood plain or very wet area come with sump pumps, but this won’t help much for a simple damp area. The first place to start is ventilation.

Proper ventilation reduces condensation and helps water evaporate properly. If you don’t have a big problem with dampness but you do notice a few areas that could use some help, this may be the issue. Consider installing a ventilation system into your basement to solve this problem.

Next, if the area is not bad or if you cannot locate the source of the leak, installing a dehumidifier can be a great and easy fix. Some homes now have whole house dehumidifiers, but even a simple unit can do the trick. Make sure that you place the dehumidifier away from a source the water to avoid electrocution and check to make sure the unit is rated for your space.

If all of this fails, you may need to seal the walls of your basement. Check with a contractor before you start this and make sure that you read the directions carefully before proceeding. While this isn’t the perfect fix, it may be the only solution for chronically damp basements. Typically, using a mix of these techniques is very beneficial and will dramatically reduce the humidity and dampness of your basement.

You may also want to have an air quality test done in your basement if dampness has been a problem for more than a few months. These tests will help determine if mold is already present in your basement.

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Installing new kitchen cabinets is a great way to give an old kitchen a facelift. In addition to being more useful, new kitchen cabinets can add value to your home and make it look a lot nicer. Before we get started, let’s make sure you have all the tools you’ll need for this project. You’ll need the following tools:

• a level
• a hacksaw (just in case)
• screwdrivers of various sizes
• plenty of screws
• wood glue (in some cases)
• a sander or rough grade sandpaper
• vise grips
• a crowbar
• measuring tape
• a sledgehammer
• a power drill

Before you can install your new cabinets, you’re going to have to rip out the old ones. This can actually be quite fun and it’s a great way to get out some frustrations. Remove everything in the cabinets, and then take off the doors. If they are screwed into the wall, carefully remove the screws. If you are working with big cabinets, it’s really helpful to have someone else on hand to help take it down from the wall. If not, make sure you have some way to catch those cabinets if they should come down when you are unscrewing them.

If you cannot remove the old cabinets easily, you may need to use that crowbar. Place the end of the bar behind the cabinets and lever outwards. It may take a few tries. If worse comes to worse, grab a sledgehammer and start pounding. Completely remove all the wood and any fittings for the old cabinetry before proceeding. If the wall looks a bit rough, you may want to sand it down to make sure that your new cabinets will sit flush.

Now that you have completely removed the old cabinetry, you’re ready to get started with the new. Place them where you think they should go and then get out your level to make sure that they are even. Using your measuring tape so that you have the exact measurements before you start drilling. It is a lot easier to fix something during this stage than it is to try to fix crooked cabinets.

Take your time and make sure that everything is level. Once you’re satisfied, you can start drilling. If your cabinetry came with any special installation instructions, please refer to these now. For your screws, you’re going to want to make sure that they are rated to hold the weight of the cabinets. Most people prefer to countersink their screws for safety. Line up where you will need to drill and create holes in both the cabinetry and the wall to make it easier.

Then, attach your screws, countersinking if necessary and assemble your cabinetry. The whole process should take only a few hours, and less if you have help. There are several schools of thought if you’re working with unfinished cabinetry. Many people prefer to sand, stain and varnish before installing. Others prefer to do this later, or sand and stain, then varnish after they’re installed. It’s up to you, but keep in mind that installation can cause nicks in your varnish.

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As summer approaches, those of us without central air are getting ready to go through the annual ritual of installing our window air conditioners. However, were you aware that a bad installation can actually raise your electricity costs and make it harder to say cool? Here are some tips to help you put your air conditioner in the right way.

1. Always make sure that the air conditioner is sized appropriately for your window.

It sounds overly simplistic, but air conditioners really only come in a few widths, and windows are very different. If you have an older house, you may have very narrow windows, while newer homes may have wider windows. Although many air conditioners do come with little plastic curtains that can stretch to either side, this is not a very effective means of keeping the heat out.

Try to find an air conditioner that is as close as possible to the width of your window. If you can’t find the perfect fit, consider using a more substantial material to provide a closer fit between the window and the air conditioning unit. Plywood painted to match your house is a great and easy fix for this problem.

2. Always make sure that you use a foam strip above and below the unit.

This is something that many people forget when they are installing their window air conditioners. That strip is going to help block out hot air from coming into your house and it is important to make sure that it is the right size for your window. It is a good idea to put it on the bottom and top of the unit for the best results.

In addition to helping with energy savings, that foam strip will also help your air conditioner run a lot quieter. The vibration from the unit can be pretty irritating when it is rattling a double pane window. By installing the foam, you’re cutting down on how much vibration will actually reach the glass.

3. If you have an old unit, it’s time to upgrade.

Today’s air conditioners are much more energy efficient and easier to install than the units of old. Gone are the clunky boxes that take two people to heft into the window and gone are the sky high electric bills. Many of today’s air conditioners can be run for about the same cost as a lamp, while the older models are closer to a chest freezer.

It is also a good idea to replace an air conditioner that is more than ten years old. The parts on these models do wear out and the Freon will not be as effective as it once was. The result is that the unit has to work harder to make it cooler in your home and you end up spending a lot more money.

Lastly, always make sure that your air conditioner is not on the side of the house where it will be exposed to constant sun. It makes it harder for the unit to run and it will not be able to keep your room cool.

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No matter where you live, there is a chance that you may be dealing with some contaminants in your water. Many of us have trace amounts of lead in our drinking water and this can be harmful to your health over time. It is a good idea to have your drinking water checked for any contaminants, especially if you live in a rural area and use your own well.

One of the easiest solutions to getting clean water is to install a filter at the tap level. However, this can get pretty old since you can’t run hot water through it and the filters can be expensive over time. If you want an easier solution, there is a type of permanent water filter that can be installed under your sink or even at the source of your water, to filter everything that goes through the faucet.

Whole house filters are an excellent investment and you’ll have the peace of mind knowing that you are bathing and drinking in clean water. However, if this is out of your price range, a simple filter that is installed under your sink can be a great alternative. Your number one priority is making sure that your drinking water is clean, so let’s look at how to install one of these filters under your sink.

Most of today’s newer filters may include a special faucet, but these can be pretty complicated to install. It is easier to pick a filter that will just use your existing fixtures. First, you’re going to need to turn off the water supply to your sink. If you don’t have a shut off valve there, you may need to turn off the water supply to your home instead. This can usually be found near your water pump.

Once the water supply is turned off, get under your sink (removing anything that may be under there) and locate the saddle valve. This is a small valve that should be located under the shut off valve. Open this up and get your filtration unit ready. It is a good idea to follow the unique instructions that come with your filter, but this is a general guideline for most filter installation procedures.

Attach the filter in between the saddle valve and the main valve. Make sure that it is located on the cold water valve since you don’t want to run hot water through the unit. Once the unit is in place, close off the valve again and install the carbon filter. These units typically have a much longer lifespan than the smaller faucet based filters, so even though you are using a carbon filter, you won’t have to change it as often.

Make sure that all of your connections are tight and turn the water supply back on. Depending on the unit, you’ll want to run at least two gallons of cold water through your tap before it is safe to drink. This is due to the little bits of carbon that can come through when it is brand new.

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Having a garage door opener makes life a lot easier and it can add safety features to an existing door. There are numerous kinds of opener and more kinds of doors, but for the sake of brevity, we’re going to cover installing a garage door opener that mounts on the wall above the door. This type of installation allows for more head room and can be a lot safer. The type of door for this opener is usually the type that will either fold up, or that can be raised on a track.

First, you’ll need to follow the instructions that are included with your opener. All openers are different, and while we can supply some general tips, you’ll need to make sure you are using the right tools and techniques for your particular opener. Keep these instructions in a safe place when you’re done in case you ever need to repair your opener.

Ok, let’s get started. Before you go any further, disconnect the power to the garage. First, you’re going to need to mount that opener above the garage door. Make sure that the wall is sturdy enough to handle the weight since some openers can be quite heavy. Using countersunk screws, attach the provided mounting brackets to the wall. You will need to make sure that you are attaching these brackets to a stud and that the screws are firmly in place.

Attach the wires in the motor to the switch on the wall. You may need some additional help from a qualified electrician if this is a brand new installation. If you’re just replacing an opener, follow the instructions to hook up the wires correctly. Make sure that you do everything correctly - wiring is not something you want to mess with. IMPORTANT: make sure that you properly hookup the emergency disconnect device. This will save a life if someone gets trapped under the door.

Now, attach the motor to the brackets, taking special care to make sure that it is secure. Attach the motor to the door using the provided belts or chains. Again, all openers are different, so at this point you will need to refer back to your instructions. Set that emergency disconnect device to MANUAL before going any further.

Raise up the door until it is completely up and then put it back down until it is completely down. Make sure that there aren’t any hitches in its movement. It should be fluid and as noise free as possible. Keep in mind that belt attachments are usually much quieter than chains.

Plug in the opener and then set up the remote control. Follow your unit’s instructions. Clean up the area and double check all connections. Turn the power back on and test the unit. Please note that it’s best to be outside of the garage during testing to avoid getting trapped inside. (It does happen.) Once you’re sure everything is working properly, you’re all set - go have a cold drink and celebrate!

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Installing a toilet is a lot easier than you might think and just about anyone can do it. Whether your old toilet is past its usefulness or you want to add a new one to match your décor, the process is pretty easy and should only take a few hours. Before you get started, you’re going to need a few basic tools. They include:

• plumber’s putty
• pipe wrenches to fit your pipes
• screwdrivers
• regular wrenches
• putty knife
• silicone
• an old rag

Let’s get started!

IMPORTANT: Not all new toilets come with the necessary parts. BEFORE you get started make sure that your new toilet has everything you need for installation. You can ask the store clerks where you got the toilet for more information.

First, you’re going to need to remove your old toilet. Turn the shutoff valve (it’s located right near the toilet) to the off position. Flush the toilet a few times and then mop up any excess water. Now, disconnect the water supply tube from the toilet. You may have some additional water here, but it shouldn’t be much. If necessary, place a sponge underneath it before you loosen the bolts. You may need to use your wrench if the area is corroded.

Once this is complete, you will then need to loosen the bolts on the toilet. Remove the little caps on either side of the base and undo these bolts. Again, you may need to use that wrench or a pair of pliers to get it going. In severe cases, you may need to hacksaw them off or use WD40 to loosen the bolts.

Now, you’re going to have to separate the old tank from the old bowl. Get your screwdriver and use it to hold the end of the bolt on the inside of the tank. Use your wrench to move the nut on the other side. Slowly remove the bolt and then rock the bowl from side to side. You’re going to want to do this pretty gently so you don’t damage the bowl. Once it’s loose, lift it out and place it in a safe place. Move the tank as well.

You’ll most likely notice a big hole in the floor and there may be a nasty smell coming out of it. This is the line to the sewer. Grab that old rag and stuff it into the hole (not too far or you’ll end up losing the rag and you’ll have to call a plumber to get it back.) You need to block this hole immediately or you will have dangerous sewer gases floating around your home and trust us, no one wants that.

Use that putty knife around this hole to scrape off any excess wax from the old gasket. Upend the new toilet and take your new gasket. Place it around the hole on the toilet and caulk it. Remove the rag from the sewer line and place the new toilet over it. Gently rock the new bowl into place until the seal is firm. Add on the new tank, attach the fittings inside and then bolt the new toilet down to the floor. Don’t overtighten those bolts or you will crack the bowl. Use your plumbers putty to attach the caps over the bolts. Reattach the water line and give her a flush!

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If you need to install new locks on your doors, there’s no need to call in a locksmith if you’ve got some basic DIY experience and you’re pretty handy. Today’s locks make it very easy to change them out and you won’t need many tools to get the job done. You will need:

• a screwdriver
• hammer
• chisel
• sandpaper
• drill
• in some cases, some adhesive.

Let’s get started! First, you’ll need to remove the old lock system. If it’s corroded, this can be pretty tough. If you can’t get it to come out of the door, try some WD40 to loosen it up. You may have to crank on those screws, but make sure that you don’t strip the heads or you’ll have a terrible time trying to get the lock out. Completely remove the lock mechanism and the plate that goes over the jamb.

Now, you’re going to need to measure the receptacle for the lock in your door jamb. If you’re using a similar lock, there shouldn’t be a problem in getting the tongue of the lock to fit into your door jamb. However, in some cases, you may need to widen the area. If the size difference is minimal, sandpaper will usually work to help create a better fit. If there is a big difference, slowly and carefully use your hammer and chisel to widen the area gradually. Don’t get too carried away or you’ll damage your door.

Once you’re sure that the tongue of your new lock will fit into the door jamb, you’re ready to get started. Separate the new lock into two pieces and insert the locking side first. Your door should already be sized to accept it. If not, you’ll need to change the shape of the hole with either sandpaper or a special saw. If you’re not comfortable with wood work, you’ll need to get someone else to widen this hole for you.

Attach the locking side to the door, making sure that it will line up perfectly with the second half before finishing. Now, get the second half of the lock and put it on the outside of the door. Place the two sides together and finish attaching them. Most new locks will come with instructions on how to accomplish this, so make sure you save them.

After this is done, you can install the new jamb plate and test the lock. It’s best to do this from the inside so you don’t get locked out if something goes wrong. We recommend fully testing the lock and the keys before you install it to cut down on any problems. It’s well worth the extra effort and you’ll keep from getting locked out. Although most prepackaged lock sets should be perfectly calibrated, there is always a chance that something might be a little off. Test it beforehand and you’ll have smooth sailing all the way. Make a copy of the key to put in a safe place and go relax - you just installed a new lock successfully!

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Window boxes add charm to any home and they are so easy to install that anyone can do it. You’re going to need to get a few things together before you get started. Your tools will include:

• window box
• brackets
• a level that is longer than the window box you are installing
• a power drill
• a screwdriver
• a measuring
• some extra screws just in case

You’ll also need to have your window box and its brackets. Remember, never install a window box that has soil in it. It’s far too heavy and unwieldy. Add that soil AFTER you’re done.

Ok, let’s get going. First, you’re going to need to measure the window where you want to put the box. If you have double hung or normal windows, make a mark about an inch below the sill. If you have windows that open outwards, make a mark around six to eight inches below the sill. Please note that the height of your window box may vary. Allow enough space for your window to open. Measure out the width of your window box and make a second mark below your sill that is the appropriate amount of space under your window.

Now, take your first bracket and line it up evenly. Use that level to make sure that the bracket is plump. (turn the level so that it is facing up and down instead of sideways.) Put the bracket back down and drill the hole into your house first. Now, put the bracket back up and put in the screw. It will bite down into the material under the siding or facing, don’t worry. Check to make sure it’s plumb and add in the remaining screws for the bracket.

Now, grab your second bracket and place it over your second mark. Make sure it’s plumb first, and then turn the level on its side to make sure that both brackets are level. Repeat the above process to attach it to your house. Check one more time to make sure that everything is level before proceeding. It is important to make sure that you are using screws that are rated to carry the weight of your window box.

Once both brackets are in place, take your window box and place it on the brackets. Now, run in the house and open the window. You should not have any trouble opening it. If you do, lower the brackets before proceeding. This makes it a lot easier than testing after you’ve attached the box. Go back outside and make sure that the window box is level.

Attach the box to the brackets and you’re almost done. If you need to paint or stain the window box to fix any holes, do so now. It’s probably best to make sure that most of the staining or painting is done before you hang the box to avoid painting your house by mistake. Fill the box with soil, plant your flowers and you are done!

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There is nothing quite like sitting on your porch during a relaxing evening after dinner. Especially if you’re trying to dodge mosquitoes and other nasty little insects. While you may not be able to completely get rid of these insects, there is a way to easily create your own screened in porch and you don’t even need a lot of experience. Most anyone can do this, and it’s well worth the time and effort.

Before you get started, you’re going to need some tools and materials. First, you’ll need enough screening material to completely screen in the porch. Get your square foot measurements and go to your local hardware store for the material. While you’re there it’s also helpful to pick up a utility knife for trimming the screening material.

You’ll Need:

• screening
• framing wood
• chalk
• utility knife
• nails
• hammer
• level

Mark off the area that you want to screen in with your chalk. Try to draw as straight of a line as possible since you will be using this as your guide for your new screens. If your porch already has a roof, you’re already half way done. If not, you’re going to have to add one. Unless you have experience roofing, it is a good idea to call a professional to have this done. This is the only step that requires any professional assistance however.

Once your roof is up, you can begin adding your framing wood. Attach the wood at the top and bottom using screws for a secure fit. Make sure you use that level to plumb and level each piece while you’re at it. Your boards should be placed about four feet apart, or at the most, six feet. When you have the whole perimeter of your porch framed in, you’ll be able to start adding your screening material. Don’t forget you should have a door leading outside for your porch, to make it safe. Frame this in and either make your own screen door, or purchase one from the hardware store.

Cut the material to fit your frames and make sure the edges are nice and neat. You can use the utility knife to get a good, clean edge. Keep in mind you may need to go over it again once it’s installed to clear up any rough edges. Nail in the screening material to the frames, taking special care to avoid any gaps. If you do have an area that has gaps, take some thread that matches the screening material and sew the two pieces together. This is an easy fix that gets quick results.

Once your screening material is in, you’ll want to clean up the rough edges and make sure that everything is secure. You can now sit back and enjoy your time outside without having to swat at bugs. This is an easy project that shouldn’t take more than a weekend to complete if you have basic DIY experience.

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If you’re sick and tired of your old kitchen sink, replacing it with a new one is not all that difficult. If you’re working with an entirely new surface, the steps for installation will be the same as provided below, but you will need to add the steps of measuring the sink and cutting in a new hole in your countertop. Most sinks now come with a template to make this easier. For the purpose of this review however, we’re going to stick with working on a replacement sink that is the exact size and shape of the old sink. If you do find that there is a size difference, you can use a saw to cut the countertop to fit.

Before we get started, you’re going to need some basic tools:

• saw (as mentioned above)
• pipe wrenches (appropriately sized for your pipes)
• screwdriver
• crowbar
• power sander or sandpaper
• pliers
• empty bucket
• silicone caulk
• plumber’s putty
• caulk
• clamps
• gloves

Turn off the water supply to the sink before proceeding any further.

Once you’ve got all of your tools organized, you’re ready to get started. Before you begin however, re-measure everything to make sure that the new sink will fit. If you still need to remove the old sink, first you will need to use your wrench to loosen the p-trap. That’s the U shaped pipe under the sink that connects the plumbing to the drain. It’s a good idea to completely remove everything under the sink to ensure that you have enough space to work and that nothing gets ruined. Place your empty bucket under the p-trap to catch any excess water.

Your old sink was most likely installed with putty or adhesive of some sort. Use your crowbar to carefully remove the sink from the counter. Lift it out and place it aside. You may need to get some help since sinks are a bit heavy. Sand any rough areas that are around the hole where the sink used to be. If you are keeping your old faucet and it’s not attached directly to the sink, re-silicone it to make sure you won’t have any leaks. If you’re replacing it, remove the old one by loosening the fittings under the counter with your pipe wrench.

You’re now ready to move to the next step. Unpack your new sink. Place plumber’s putty around the edges of the hole where the sink will go. Lift up the new sink and carefully place it into the hole. Make sure it is completely lined up and fits well before proceeding. Now, clamp it down and give it enough time to dry. If any putty squeezes out, use a damp cloth to wipe it away. Attach your new faucet, or re-attach the old one and caulk around the area. It is also a good idea to caulk around the outside edges of the sink. When it’s dry, you can sand it down to make it look better. Reconnect the p-trap and you’re all done!

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