November 18th, 2008 — Doors, Handy Man, Install, Replace, Safety, locks
If you need to install new locks on your doors, there’s no need to call in a locksmith if you’ve got some basic DIY experience and you’re pretty handy. Today’s locks make it very easy to change them out and you won’t need many tools to get the job done. You will need:
- a screwdriver
- hammer
- chisel
- sandpaper
- drill
- in some cases, some adhesive.
Let’s get started! First, you’ll need to remove the old lock system. If it’s corroded, this can be pretty tough. If you can’t get it to come out of the door, try some WD40 to loosen it up. You may have to crank on those screws, but make sure that you don’t strip the heads or you’ll have a terrible time trying to get the lock out. Completely remove the lock mechanism and the plate that goes over the jamb.
Now, you’re going to need to measure the receptacle for the lock in your door jamb. If you’re using a similar lock, there shouldn’t be a problem in getting the tongue of the lock to fit into your door jamb. However, in some cases, you may need to widen the area. If the size difference is minimal, sandpaper will usually work to help create a better fit. If there is a big difference, slowly and carefully use your hammer and chisel to widen the area gradually. Don’t get too carried away or you’ll damage your door.
Once you’re sure that the tongue of your new lock will fit into the door jamb, you’re ready to get started. Separate the new lock into two pieces and insert the locking side first. Your door should already be sized to accept it. If not, you’ll need to change the shape of the hole with either sandpaper or a special saw. If you’re not comfortable with wood work, you’ll need to get someone else to widen this hole for you.
Attach the locking side to the door, making sure that it will line up perfectly with the second half before finishing. Now, get the second half of the lock and put it on the outside of the door. Place the two sides together and finish attaching them. Most new locks will come with instructions on how to accomplish this, so make sure you save them.
After this is done, you can install the new jamb plate and test the lock. It’s best to do this from the inside so you don’t get locked out if something goes wrong. We recommend fully testing the lock and the keys before you install it to cut down on any problems. It’s well worth the extra effort and you’ll keep from getting locked out. Although most prepackaged lock sets should be perfectly calibrated, there is always a chance that something might be a little off. Test it beforehand and you’ll have smooth sailing all the way. Make a copy of the key to put in a safe place and go relax - you just installed a new lock successfully!
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November 16th, 2008 — Create, Curb Appeal, Design, Flooring, Handy Man, Landscape, Outside, Project, Yard
Any home can look better when you add a nice walkway leading up to it. Luckily, just about anyone can do it on their own and it doesn’t take much time. We recommend allowing around two to three days to complete your walkway, so it can be accomplished on a weekend. If you need to break it up, you can dig on a Friday evening so that the next two days are free for the whole installation process.
You’re going to need some tools and materials before you get started. They include:
- shovels
- strings and posts
- landscaping nails
- ledger boards
- plastic guides
- rock dust
- gravel
- wetsaw or paver splitter
- numerous 2 x 4’s
- your pavers
- a level
Most if not all of these items are available at any hardware store. A wetsaw is pretty expensive, but you can rent one. If this doesn’t appeal to you, a paver splitter will usually be able to get the job done for you and they are a lot cheaper. If you are using a splitter, you’ll need to add a hammer and chisel to your material list.
Ok - let’s get started. First, you’re going to want to measure out your walkway. Keep in mind the size of your pavers and allow at least two extra inches on the sides for your filler. You’re going to want to dig out a path that is around one foot deep for the entire length of the path. Now, grab those strings and posts, and place them alongside this path. Put the strings at level with the ground above your new path. This will be your guide as to how high your finished path will be. You don’t want it too high or you’ll end up tripping over your own walkway.
Take that gravel and fill in the pathway completely with about ¾ of an inch of gravel. Once you’re done, tamp it down securely. Now, take that rock dust (sand works too) and fill in the entire path to a depth of about 2 inches. Tamp this down again. Take your ledger boards and lay them out along the sides of your path. Place your 2 x 4’s over these so that you have a wooden plankway. This provides a solid surface for your pavers.
Use those plastic guides on the outer edges of your walkway to mark off the edges. This gives it a nice finished look that is very even. You’re now ready to add your pavers. Put them in following the pattern of your choice. Make sure they are arranged properly. In most cases, you’ll need to cut a paver. Use the wetsaw or splitter to get this done and finish the walkway.
Now, add in rock dust along the sides to build everything up until it is level. Tamp it down. Spread out the rest of the dust on the pavers and sweep it into the cracks. You should do this a couple of times until everything is packed firmly in. This helps reduce the risk of weeds between your pavers and makes the surface a lot safer. You can add some grass seed along the edges to give it a more finished look.
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September 22nd, 2008 — Aesthetics, Fix, Handy Man, Replace, Walls
While crown molding doesn’t serve any real purpose, it still looks nice and can add value to your home. However, over time, crown molding can become cracked, pieces may fall away or it may just start to look a little old. Luckily, this is a pretty easy fix and it is also very easy to install brand new crown molding. Whether you want to change the look of a room or fix a problem, let’s get started with fixing and replacing crown molding.
If you will be replacing your molding, you’ll need to decide how large you want to go. If your ceilings are a bit low, thick crown molding can make the room seem smaller. However, the right kind of decorative crown molding that is narrow will draw the eye upwards and make the room seem larger. It’s best to get a few samples and see which one you like best when you get them up on your walls.
Crown molding will usually come in either white, wood stain or unfinished. You’ll have to decide which look will fit your home best. If you are only replacing one room’s molding, you’ll want to try to match the new molding to the rest of the house as closely as possible. If you can’t find a close match, get unfinished molding so that you can stain it to match.
You’ll need to start by ripping out the old molding, whether you are fixing or replacing. This will require a ladder, a hammer and some gloves. You may also need a chisel to help get behind the molding if the hammer won’t do it. Make sure you are safely on the ladder and start on one end of the room. If you’re completely replacing the molding, it won’t matter if you crack the pieces when you’re taking them off. Otherwise, you’ll want to be very careful on this step.
Most crown molding is installed using simple carpentry nails and it will not be hard to remove. Place your hammer or chisel behind the molding, pulling it away from the wall a little bit and use this to lever the molding off of the wall. Keep an eye out for any nails that come free so that no one will step on them later.
If you’re fixing one piece, you’ll need to take down the entire length of molding for that wall. While it is possible to cut away the broken part, this rarely looks nice once you’re done. Remove the whole strip of molding and measure it twice. Now, get your new strip of molding and make sure that it is sized properly. If necessary, cut it to fit. You’ll need to get some new nails to complete your replacement or your repair.
Get back up on the ladder and start with one end once again. You’ll need to make sure that it is completely level before you start nailing. If necessary, have a friend hold the molding for you so that your hands are free for hammering. After putting in the nails, you’ll be all done!
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September 16th, 2008 — Flooring, Handy Man, carpet
Whether you are ready to replace an old, stained carpet, or you want to completely redo your flooring, it is vital to make sure that you know how to properly remove carpet. By using the right techniques, you’ll be assured of saving not only time, but your floors will go through a lot less damage. Before we get started, it’s a good idea to have some kneepads, since you will be kneeling, gloves, a carpet knife and a chisel.
The amount of work involved is going to depend largely on how the carpet was installed. We’ve seen cases of industrial glue applied directly to a floor and then a carpet was slapped on top of it. This was one of the hardest removal jobs we’ve ever done and it resulted in severely damaged floors. Hopefully, your carpets were installed professionally, but you’ll need to get an idea of what you’re working with before you get started.
Go to one corner of the room, preferably in the back where it won’t be noticeable. Take up a small section of carpet and see what method was used to attach it to the floor. If it is glued, you’ll see some yellow residue. This may be crumbling if the house is older and the carpets are original. This won’t be hard to remove at all, and shouldn’t take much time.
Some installers use carpet nails and these can be a little trickier. You’ll need to start by ripping out the carpet in one corner and then locating the little nails as you go. Depending on their size and how old the installation is, you may be able to just rip them out, or you may end up having to pry up each one.
Once you know how the carpet was installed, completely clear the room out from furniture and you’ll be ready to get started. It’s best to go back to that original place where you tore out a small piece of carpet. If it was glued, plant your feet and get a good grip on the carpet. This is where your gloves are really going to come in handy.
Start pulling backwards, using as much leverage as you can. You’ll have better results if you’re standing, and if the glue is really firm, you may even need a friend to help you. Pull up the carpet until you have a large portion that resembles a piece of pie. Now, go to the other corner and do the same thing.
Go to the two remaining corners and do the same thing until you have all of the carpet in the center of the room. Sometimes, the central part of the carpet will be the hardest to remove. Try rolling up what you’ve already removed and use leverage once again to try to rip it out. When you’re done, roll up the whole carpet and remove it from the room. If it was nailed down, we recommend using a small metal detector to find any small nails that may be hard to spot. You’re now ready to install your new flooring!
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