November 16th, 2008 — Create, Curb Appeal, Design, Flooring, Handy Man, Landscape, Outside, Project, Yard
Any home can look better when you add a nice walkway leading up to it. Luckily, just about anyone can do it on their own and it doesn’t take much time. We recommend allowing around two to three days to complete your walkway, so it can be accomplished on a weekend. If you need to break it up, you can dig on a Friday evening so that the next two days are free for the whole installation process.
You’re going to need some tools and materials before you get started. They include:
- shovels
- strings and posts
- landscaping nails
- ledger boards
- plastic guides
- rock dust
- gravel
- wetsaw or paver splitter
- numerous 2 x 4’s
- your pavers
- a level
Most if not all of these items are available at any hardware store. A wetsaw is pretty expensive, but you can rent one. If this doesn’t appeal to you, a paver splitter will usually be able to get the job done for you and they are a lot cheaper. If you are using a splitter, you’ll need to add a hammer and chisel to your material list.
Ok - let’s get started. First, you’re going to want to measure out your walkway. Keep in mind the size of your pavers and allow at least two extra inches on the sides for your filler. You’re going to want to dig out a path that is around one foot deep for the entire length of the path. Now, grab those strings and posts, and place them alongside this path. Put the strings at level with the ground above your new path. This will be your guide as to how high your finished path will be. You don’t want it too high or you’ll end up tripping over your own walkway.
Take that gravel and fill in the pathway completely with about ¾ of an inch of gravel. Once you’re done, tamp it down securely. Now, take that rock dust (sand works too) and fill in the entire path to a depth of about 2 inches. Tamp this down again. Take your ledger boards and lay them out along the sides of your path. Place your 2 x 4’s over these so that you have a wooden plankway. This provides a solid surface for your pavers.
Use those plastic guides on the outer edges of your walkway to mark off the edges. This gives it a nice finished look that is very even. You’re now ready to add your pavers. Put them in following the pattern of your choice. Make sure they are arranged properly. In most cases, you’ll need to cut a paver. Use the wetsaw or splitter to get this done and finish the walkway.
Now, add in rock dust along the sides to build everything up until it is level. Tamp it down. Spread out the rest of the dust on the pavers and sweep it into the cracks. You should do this a couple of times until everything is packed firmly in. This helps reduce the risk of weeds between your pavers and makes the surface a lot safer. You can add some grass seed along the edges to give it a more finished look.
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November 11th, 2008 — Handy Man, Install, Porch, Screen
There is nothing quite like sitting on your porch during a relaxing evening after dinner. Especially if you’re trying to dodge mosquitoes and other nasty little insects. While you may not be able to completely get rid of these insects, there is a way to easily create your own screened in porch and you don’t even need a lot of experience. Most anyone can do this, and it’s well worth the time and effort.
Before you get started, you’re going to need some tools and materials. First, you’ll need enough screening material to completely screen in the porch. Get your square foot measurements and go to your local hardware store for the material. While you’re there it’s also helpful to pick up a utility knife for trimming the screening material.
You’ll Need:
- screening
- framing wood
- chalk
- utility knife
- nails
- hammer
- level
Mark off the area that you want to screen in with your chalk. Try to draw as straight of a line as possible since you will be using this as your guide for your new screens. If your porch already has a roof, you’re already half way done. If not, you’re going to have to add one. Unless you have experience roofing, it is a good idea to call a professional to have this done. This is the only step that requires any professional assistance however.
Once your roof is up, you can begin adding your framing wood. Attach the wood at the top and bottom using screws for a secure fit. Make sure you use that level to plumb and level each piece while you’re at it. Your boards should be placed about four feet apart, or at the most, six feet. When you have the whole perimeter of your porch framed in, you’ll be able to start adding your screening material. Don’t forget you should have a door leading outside for your porch, to make it safe. Frame this in and either make your own screen door, or purchase one from the hardware store.
Cut the material to fit your frames and make sure the edges are nice and neat. You can use the utility knife to get a good, clean edge. Keep in mind you may need to go over it again once it’s installed to clear up any rough edges. Nail in the screening material to the frames, taking special care to avoid any gaps. If you do have an area that has gaps, take some thread that matches the screening material and sew the two pieces together. This is an easy fix that gets quick results.
Once your screening material is in, you’ll want to clean up the rough edges and make sure that everything is secure. You can now sit back and enjoy your time outside without having to swat at bugs. This is an easy project that shouldn’t take more than a weekend to complete if you have basic DIY experience.
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September 22nd, 2008 — Aesthetics, Fix, Handy Man, Replace, Walls
While crown molding doesn’t serve any real purpose, it still looks nice and can add value to your home. However, over time, crown molding can become cracked, pieces may fall away or it may just start to look a little old. Luckily, this is a pretty easy fix and it is also very easy to install brand new crown molding. Whether you want to change the look of a room or fix a problem, let’s get started with fixing and replacing crown molding.
If you will be replacing your molding, you’ll need to decide how large you want to go. If your ceilings are a bit low, thick crown molding can make the room seem smaller. However, the right kind of decorative crown molding that is narrow will draw the eye upwards and make the room seem larger. It’s best to get a few samples and see which one you like best when you get them up on your walls.
Crown molding will usually come in either white, wood stain or unfinished. You’ll have to decide which look will fit your home best. If you are only replacing one room’s molding, you’ll want to try to match the new molding to the rest of the house as closely as possible. If you can’t find a close match, get unfinished molding so that you can stain it to match.
You’ll need to start by ripping out the old molding, whether you are fixing or replacing. This will require a ladder, a hammer and some gloves. You may also need a chisel to help get behind the molding if the hammer won’t do it. Make sure you are safely on the ladder and start on one end of the room. If you’re completely replacing the molding, it won’t matter if you crack the pieces when you’re taking them off. Otherwise, you’ll want to be very careful on this step.
Most crown molding is installed using simple carpentry nails and it will not be hard to remove. Place your hammer or chisel behind the molding, pulling it away from the wall a little bit and use this to lever the molding off of the wall. Keep an eye out for any nails that come free so that no one will step on them later.
If you’re fixing one piece, you’ll need to take down the entire length of molding for that wall. While it is possible to cut away the broken part, this rarely looks nice once you’re done. Remove the whole strip of molding and measure it twice. Now, get your new strip of molding and make sure that it is sized properly. If necessary, cut it to fit. You’ll need to get some new nails to complete your replacement or your repair.
Get back up on the ladder and start with one end once again. You’ll need to make sure that it is completely level before you start nailing. If necessary, have a friend hold the molding for you so that your hands are free for hammering. After putting in the nails, you’ll be all done!
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September 17th, 2008 — House Damage, Repair, Replace, stairs
Broken or loose stairs are not only unsightly, but they can also be incredibly dangerous. Repairing stairs doesn’t have to be difficult and unless they need a total replacement, you should be able to take care of it with just some basic tools.
To get started, you’ll need to have some nails, screws, a ladder, a hammer, screwdrivers, and a level. It is vital to make sure that your repairs are sound and a level is a very essential tool for this.
For a creaky stair or one that is a little lose, you’ll need to head into the well of the stairway. From there, you will be able to pinpoint the exact problem. Grab your ladder and locate the stair that is causing the problem. There should be a bracket with some screws under each step. Try tightening these screws to see if that doesn’t fix the problem. While you’re there, it’s also a good idea to go through all of the brackets to make sure that they are secure.
Nine times out of ten, this will fix your stair problem and it takes only a few minutes to complete. But what if there is a more serious problem at work? In this situation, the wood of the stair may actually be degraded. If you have carpeting, you’ll need to pull it up to take care of this issue. It’s best to start at the bottom and take up the carpet over each step. It’s a little labor intensive, but your only other option is to cut out the area of carpet over the problem step and this only leads to further repair issues.
Once you have the carpet removed and the backing, you’ll be able to see what you are working with. Remember that your safety needs to come first. Avoid walking on any steps that are structurally damaged. Locate the area of wood that needs to be replaced. Most modern steps will be made with a flat board that is secured on top of the sides. You may need to go back into the well to remove the bracket, of if the wood is just nailed on top of the side boards, you can simply remove it.
Now, you’ll need to replace that board. It’s best to do a complete replacement of a bad step, instead of just placing a shim in there. Once you have the wood completely out, measure it and cut a brand new step. You’ll need to make sure that your measurements are exact and that the wood you are using will hold up to daily traffic. Never skimp on quality when you are dealing with steps.
Go back and replace the new board, making sure that it is completely secure and attached. Now, you’ll need to replace the carpet again, but your reward will be a staircase that is no longer dangerous, noisy or falling down. If you have a serious issue with your stairs, it may be best to call a professional, especially if the entire structure is starting to show signs of wood rot or complete disintegration.
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September 16th, 2008 — Flooring, Handy Man, carpet
Whether you are ready to replace an old, stained carpet, or you want to completely redo your flooring, it is vital to make sure that you know how to properly remove carpet. By using the right techniques, you’ll be assured of saving not only time, but your floors will go through a lot less damage. Before we get started, it’s a good idea to have some kneepads, since you will be kneeling, gloves, a carpet knife and a chisel.
The amount of work involved is going to depend largely on how the carpet was installed. We’ve seen cases of industrial glue applied directly to a floor and then a carpet was slapped on top of it. This was one of the hardest removal jobs we’ve ever done and it resulted in severely damaged floors. Hopefully, your carpets were installed professionally, but you’ll need to get an idea of what you’re working with before you get started.
Go to one corner of the room, preferably in the back where it won’t be noticeable. Take up a small section of carpet and see what method was used to attach it to the floor. If it is glued, you’ll see some yellow residue. This may be crumbling if the house is older and the carpets are original. This won’t be hard to remove at all, and shouldn’t take much time.
Some installers use carpet nails and these can be a little trickier. You’ll need to start by ripping out the carpet in one corner and then locating the little nails as you go. Depending on their size and how old the installation is, you may be able to just rip them out, or you may end up having to pry up each one.
Once you know how the carpet was installed, completely clear the room out from furniture and you’ll be ready to get started. It’s best to go back to that original place where you tore out a small piece of carpet. If it was glued, plant your feet and get a good grip on the carpet. This is where your gloves are really going to come in handy.
Start pulling backwards, using as much leverage as you can. You’ll have better results if you’re standing, and if the glue is really firm, you may even need a friend to help you. Pull up the carpet until you have a large portion that resembles a piece of pie. Now, go to the other corner and do the same thing.
Go to the two remaining corners and do the same thing until you have all of the carpet in the center of the room. Sometimes, the central part of the carpet will be the hardest to remove. Try rolling up what you’ve already removed and use leverage once again to try to rip it out. When you’re done, roll up the whole carpet and remove it from the room. If it was nailed down, we recommend using a small metal detector to find any small nails that may be hard to spot. You’re now ready to install your new flooring!
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