November 18th, 2008 — Doors, Handy Man, Install, Replace, Safety, locks
If you need to install new locks on your doors, there’s no need to call in a locksmith if you’ve got some basic DIY experience and you’re pretty handy. Today’s locks make it very easy to change them out and you won’t need many tools to get the job done. You will need:
- a screwdriver
- hammer
- chisel
- sandpaper
- drill
- in some cases, some adhesive.
Let’s get started! First, you’ll need to remove the old lock system. If it’s corroded, this can be pretty tough. If you can’t get it to come out of the door, try some WD40 to loosen it up. You may have to crank on those screws, but make sure that you don’t strip the heads or you’ll have a terrible time trying to get the lock out. Completely remove the lock mechanism and the plate that goes over the jamb.
Now, you’re going to need to measure the receptacle for the lock in your door jamb. If you’re using a similar lock, there shouldn’t be a problem in getting the tongue of the lock to fit into your door jamb. However, in some cases, you may need to widen the area. If the size difference is minimal, sandpaper will usually work to help create a better fit. If there is a big difference, slowly and carefully use your hammer and chisel to widen the area gradually. Don’t get too carried away or you’ll damage your door.
Once you’re sure that the tongue of your new lock will fit into the door jamb, you’re ready to get started. Separate the new lock into two pieces and insert the locking side first. Your door should already be sized to accept it. If not, you’ll need to change the shape of the hole with either sandpaper or a special saw. If you’re not comfortable with wood work, you’ll need to get someone else to widen this hole for you.
Attach the locking side to the door, making sure that it will line up perfectly with the second half before finishing. Now, get the second half of the lock and put it on the outside of the door. Place the two sides together and finish attaching them. Most new locks will come with instructions on how to accomplish this, so make sure you save them.
After this is done, you can install the new jamb plate and test the lock. It’s best to do this from the inside so you don’t get locked out if something goes wrong. We recommend fully testing the lock and the keys before you install it to cut down on any problems. It’s well worth the extra effort and you’ll keep from getting locked out. Although most prepackaged lock sets should be perfectly calibrated, there is always a chance that something might be a little off. Test it beforehand and you’ll have smooth sailing all the way. Make a copy of the key to put in a safe place and go relax - you just installed a new lock successfully!
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November 13th, 2008 — Aesthetics, Handy Man, Repair, Walls
Holes in the wall are pretty shocking when it happens, but luckily, this is a fix that most people can do on their own. There are a few exceptions, such as if the hole is overly large or if there may be underlying damage that is structural. However, in most cases, you can easily fix a small hole in the wall very easily. You will need to have a few tools and materials on hand before you get started.
We recommend:
- drywall putty
- a flour sack
- sandpaper
- paint to match the wall
- a painter’s knife
First, you’ll need to determine how bad the hole is. If it’s a simple cosmetic hole, the fix will be pretty easy and you may not need to worry about filling the area. However, if you’ve got a pretty large hole, it’s a good idea to stuff something in there to make it easier to fill. A flour sack works very well for this purpose, and can make it easier to get the job done quickly. You may also want to get a special kit from the hardware store that will have filler that can be inserted into the hole.
Once you’ve got the hole filled, it’s time to cover it up. Grab your drywall putty and your painter’s knife and get started. You’ll want to use a spackle motion to apply the putty to the wall. Overlap the hole as you go to create a strong bond. Make sure that you don’t use too much or you’ll end up with a mess on your hand. Too little however and you won’t be able to get the job done. Instead of glopping it on all at once, gradually apply the putty until the area is even and filled in.
Now, you’re going to need to let this dry before proceeding to the next step. It may take a few hours depending on the type of putty you used. Make sure you read the instructions so that you’re not jumping the gun. When the putty is completely dry to the touch, get your sandpaper and smooth out the area. You’ll need to make a few passes to get everything smoothed out and even with the rest of the wall.
Once you’ve finished this, you’ll be able to paint over the area. Most drywall putty is taupe or light brown in color so you won’t have to worry too much about covering it up with paint. If the wall is white, you’re probably going to need to add a few coats to prevent see through. Let the paint dry completely before you quit to make sure that it looks right.
It is important to address a common technique that many people use as a shortcut. If you’ve got a small hole in the wall and you’re a renter, you can easily make it look as though it’s fixed by adding a little white toothpaste to the area. For bigger holes, some people like to try mixing flour and water to create a paste and using a sheet to cover the hole. We don’t recommend this fix since it is not permanent.
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November 10th, 2008 — Handy Man, Install, Kitchen, Sink
If you’re sick and tired of your old kitchen sink, replacing it with a new one is not all that difficult. If you’re working with an entirely new surface, the steps for installation will be the same as provided below, but you will need to add the steps of measuring the sink and cutting in a new hole in your countertop. Most sinks now come with a template to make this easier. For the purpose of this review however, we’re going to stick with working on a replacement sink that is the exact size and shape of the old sink. If you do find that there is a size difference, you can use a saw to cut the countertop to fit.
Before we get started, you’re going to need some basic tools:
- saw (as mentioned above)
- pipe wrenches (appropriately sized for your pipes)
- screwdriver
- crowbar
- power sander or sandpaper
- pliers
- empty bucket
- silicone caulk
- plumber’s putty
- caulk
- clamps
- gloves
Turn off the water supply to the sink before proceeding any further.
Once you’ve got all of your tools organized, you’re ready to get started. Before you begin however, re-measure everything to make sure that the new sink will fit. If you still need to remove the old sink, first you will need to use your wrench to loosen the p-trap. That’s the U shaped pipe under the sink that connects the plumbing to the drain. It’s a good idea to completely remove everything under the sink to ensure that you have enough space to work and that nothing gets ruined. Place your empty bucket under the p-trap to catch any excess water.
Your old sink was most likely installed with putty or adhesive of some sort. Use your crowbar to carefully remove the sink from the counter. Lift it out and place it aside. You may need to get some help since sinks are a bit heavy. Sand any rough areas that are around the hole where the sink used to be. If you are keeping your old faucet and it’s not attached directly to the sink, re-silicone it to make sure you won’t have any leaks. If you’re replacing it, remove the old one by loosening the fittings under the counter with your pipe wrench.
You’re now ready to move to the next step. Unpack your new sink. Place plumber’s putty around the edges of the hole where the sink will go. Lift up the new sink and carefully place it into the hole. Make sure it is completely lined up and fits well before proceeding. Now, clamp it down and give it enough time to dry. If any putty squeezes out, use a damp cloth to wipe it away. Attach your new faucet, or re-attach the old one and caulk around the area. It is also a good idea to caulk around the outside edges of the sink. When it’s dry, you can sand it down to make it look better. Reconnect the p-trap and you’re all done!
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November 5th, 2008 — Repair, Walls
If you have an older home that has some structural damage, or if you are starting to notice tiny cracks in the walls, the time to fix these is now, before they get any worse. If the crack is serious, you may need to get the help of a professional, especially if the crack happens to be on a load bearing wall. However, for small cracks that are not serious, you can easily fix this on your own and make your wall look new again.
In most cases, cracks are the result of either hitting the wall too hard, or the plaster may have just cracked. Before you get started, you’ll need sandpaper, a trowel, a scraper and some joint compound. All of these items can be purchased at your local hardware store and most are very low cost. Once you have everything together, it’s time to get started.
Step One –
Sand down the paint around the crack. You need to make sure that the joint compound will be able to form a good bond on the crack, so take your sandpaper and start sanding the paint around the crack in the wall. If you have wallpaper on the wall, you will need to remove it first, and then sand down the surface.
Step Two –
Remove any surface dust. Once you have the area around the crack sanded down, you’ll need to remove any surface dust before going to the next step. A slightly dampened rag works wonders, but just make sure that the wall is dry before you proceed to the next step.
Step Three –
Apply the compound. Open up your tub of joint compound and get your trowel. Place a small amount on the trowel and then start applying the compound to the wall. It’s best to do this in short, shift motions, usually in the pattern of an X. You don’t need to extend the compound too far around the crack, a few inches will do. Keep applying the compound, using your X pattern, until the crack is completely covered over.
Step Four –
Wait for the compound to dry and then sand it down. You will need to wait for the joint compound to dry before you can go any further. It’s a good idea to use your scraper to remove any excess compound to speed this process up. Just take a look at the directions on the tub to see how long you will need to wait. Once it’s dry, sand it down so that it won’t be so obvious once you add paint. Ideally, the compound should be just about flush with the wall.
Step Five –
Repaint or re-wallpaper the area. Once your compound has been sanded down, you can paint or wallpaper the area around and over the crack so that it is not as noticeable. Treat the area with care and gently smooth out any bubbles. If necessary, you may need to sand a bit more, if you didn’t get it completely smooth the first time.
That’s it – your wall has been repaired!
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October 20th, 2008 — Bathtub, Clean, Handy Man, Refresh, Sink
Whether you have a fiberglass tub or sink or vitreous china, it doesn’t take long before stains start to appear. This is particularly true if you have hard water. While these unsightly stains can be frustrating, there are actually a few ways that you can easily get rid of them, without resorting to harmful chemicals. Thoroughly cleaning a tub or sink is the first step in restoration, so let’s start there.
One of the easiest ways to remove old stains from a tub or sink is by using drywall sandpaper. This is typically black in color and will look like a fine mesh. While its normal use is to smooth out rough patches in drywall, it is also incredibly useful for tubs and sinks. Because the mesh is fine, you won’t be scratching your tub’s finish and it is incredibly effective at getting out those stains.
This will require a fair amount of elbow grease. Take a small square of drywall sandpaper and start scrubbing it in a circular motion on the stain. Take care not to involve water in this process. Keep scrubbing until you start to see some results. You may end up with some black residue on the stain but don’t panic. This is normal and is simply residue from the sandpaper. Once you think the stain has been completely removed, rinse the area. If it is still there, dry it thoroughly and start again.
For shampoo and soap stains that are stubborn, or just simple grime, there is a very easy solution. Take a grapefruit and cut it in half. Put some salt in a bowl that is large enough to fit the grapefruit in. Dip the fruit into the bowl, cut side down and then begin scrubbing the stain with it. It is best to wear gloves for this procedure.
The acid in the grapefruit interacts with the salt to create a very powerful compound that can blast through nearly any stain. This is a little known trick, but it is incredibly effective. Other citrus fruits, such as lemons, will also work, but none are as effective as a grapefruit.
Once all the stains are gone, it’s time to take a look at your handiwork and see if anything additional needs to be done. If the finish is dull, or no longer feels slick, you may need to repaint the tub. Go to the hardware store and look for tub and sink paint – making certain whether or not you are dealing with vitreous china or fiberglass. There are quite a few options available and you may even be able to get tinted paint that will allow you to change the color of your tub and sink.
Since your tub or sink will already be cleaned, simply make sure that it is completely dry and begin painting. Follow the instructions on the paint closely and make sure that you give the area plenty of time to dry. If necessary, make the bathroom off limits until the paint is done drying. Once it is, you should have a beautifully restored tub or sink.
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October 9th, 2008 — Handy Man, Refresh, Woodwork
If your home is from the arts and crafts era, or if you have built-ins that are looking a little worn, restoring them is not as difficult as you may think. Built-ins are incredibly useful but they are often overlooked by many home owners. Here are some great tips to help you restore the built-ins in your home and make them look brand new once again.
First, you will need to decide whether you will be sticking to the original character of the piece, or if you would like to completely change its appearance. For example, restoring a built-in bookcase to its original stain and finish may require a little bit of research on your part, especially if it has been painted or faded through the years. Most local libraries will contain books about the arts and crafts era and you can get some great inspiration from them when it comes time to refinish your built-in.
However, you can also completely redo a built-in to change its color or even add more usefulness by removing or adding shelves. It is important to note however that painting a built-in may reduce its overall value, unless the wood is in such bad shape that it is the only answer. Whether you are a wood purist, or a dedicated believer that all wood should be painted, it is important to consider the end result and whether or not it will add or detract from your entire house.
Once you’ve made this decision, you can move forward to restore your built-in. The first step is to remove all items from the built-in and thoroughly clean it. A damp rag will usually work best for this since it will pick up dust, but not leave behind any cleaning product residue that could interact with your paint or wood stain. If the built-in has doors, these should be removed and finished separately before being reinstalled.
Now, using either a piece of sandpaper, or a sanding tool, you will need to completely strip the unit of its finish or paint. This can take a little while, but be careful not to damage the integrity of the wood. Sanders can reduce the overall effort, but they can also take gouges out of the wood if you are not careful. Work slowly and take the time that it takes to finish.
Once your finish is completely removed, get your damp cloth again and go over the built-in to remove any sanding residue. Let that dry and then you can proceed to either painting or staining the wood. Older units may require more than one coat of paint or stain. Allow each coat plenty of time to dry to avoid dealing with bubbles and streaks.
After the final coat has been applied and fully dried, you should consider adding a sealant to protect the finish. Lacquer is a great option that will provide you with a great shine and durability that will last for several years.
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July 22nd, 2008 — Ceramic, Clean, Handy Man, Sink, stainless steel
Our sinks are subjected to constant abuse and even with the most careful cleaning, stains can occur over time. The most common stains are due to hard water and they can be difficult to remove. However, there are a few easy tips that you can use to get rid of these stains for good.
Ceramic
One of the easiest ways to remove a bad water stain from a ceramic sink doesn’t involve any cleaner. All you need for this project is a few sheets of drywall sandpaper. That’s right - some sandpaper. Most products like this are black in color and have small holes. It’s not as rough as sandpaper, you don’t want to scrape the finish off your sink.
We recommend this fix for when all the cleaners you’ve tried have failed and you really want to get rid of that stain. Put on some gloves so you don’t rip up your hands with the paper and you’re ready to get started.
Make sure the sink is completely dry. Rub the paper in circles over the stain. You may really need to put some effort into it if the stain is very bad. Keep rubbing and you’ll notice that black residue is being left on your sink. Don’t worry, this is normal. If you need to rinse off the area to see your progress, remove the sandpaper from the sink, rinse it and completely dry the area off once again.
This technique works best completely dry, but if you do get your sandpaper a little wet, don’t worry. This should completely remove your stain and is very useful if you’re trying to take care of stains that collect around your drains that are very hard to remove.
Stainless Steel
It’s a bit easier to clean off a stainless steel sink. We recommend using a mixture of vinegar and baking soda to power off any nasty stains or white marks. It is best to use a soft cloth to avoid scratching the surface. If you prefer, you can also use half of a citrus fruit to get a very quick cleaning tool that works well.
You can take any citrus fruit, but we recommend a grapefruit since it is very acidic and quite a bit bigger so the job goes faster. Cut the fruit in half (watch your eyes!) and then place the half cut side down on the sink. Gently rub the fruit in a circle over the surface of the sink. You may want to wear gloves if you have sensitive hands since the juice can be pretty hard on your skin.
Once you’ve done this for a few minutes, you should notice the stains disappearing thanks to the citric acid. Now, rinse the sink thoroughly with cold water and then dry it. Once it is dry, you can take a small amount of olive oil on a soft cloth and rub it into the sink in spots where it still looks a little white.
We recommend oiling your stainless steel sink once a week to keep it looking shiny and to help it stay protected.
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