November 16th, 2008 — Create, Curb Appeal, Design, Flooring, Handy Man, Landscape, Outside, Project, Yard
Any home can look better when you add a nice walkway leading up to it. Luckily, just about anyone can do it on their own and it doesn’t take much time. We recommend allowing around two to three days to complete your walkway, so it can be accomplished on a weekend. If you need to break it up, you can dig on a Friday evening so that the next two days are free for the whole installation process.
You’re going to need some tools and materials before you get started. They include:
- shovels
- strings and posts
- landscaping nails
- ledger boards
- plastic guides
- rock dust
- gravel
- wetsaw or paver splitter
- numerous 2 x 4’s
- your pavers
- a level
Most if not all of these items are available at any hardware store. A wetsaw is pretty expensive, but you can rent one. If this doesn’t appeal to you, a paver splitter will usually be able to get the job done for you and they are a lot cheaper. If you are using a splitter, you’ll need to add a hammer and chisel to your material list.
Ok - let’s get started. First, you’re going to want to measure out your walkway. Keep in mind the size of your pavers and allow at least two extra inches on the sides for your filler. You’re going to want to dig out a path that is around one foot deep for the entire length of the path. Now, grab those strings and posts, and place them alongside this path. Put the strings at level with the ground above your new path. This will be your guide as to how high your finished path will be. You don’t want it too high or you’ll end up tripping over your own walkway.
Take that gravel and fill in the pathway completely with about ¾ of an inch of gravel. Once you’re done, tamp it down securely. Now, take that rock dust (sand works too) and fill in the entire path to a depth of about 2 inches. Tamp this down again. Take your ledger boards and lay them out along the sides of your path. Place your 2 x 4’s over these so that you have a wooden plankway. This provides a solid surface for your pavers.
Use those plastic guides on the outer edges of your walkway to mark off the edges. This gives it a nice finished look that is very even. You’re now ready to add your pavers. Put them in following the pattern of your choice. Make sure they are arranged properly. In most cases, you’ll need to cut a paver. Use the wetsaw or splitter to get this done and finish the walkway.
Now, add in rock dust along the sides to build everything up until it is level. Tamp it down. Spread out the rest of the dust on the pavers and sweep it into the cracks. You should do this a couple of times until everything is packed firmly in. This helps reduce the risk of weeds between your pavers and makes the surface a lot safer. You can add some grass seed along the edges to give it a more finished look.
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November 13th, 2008 — Aesthetics, Handy Man, Repair, Walls
Holes in the wall are pretty shocking when it happens, but luckily, this is a fix that most people can do on their own. There are a few exceptions, such as if the hole is overly large or if there may be underlying damage that is structural. However, in most cases, you can easily fix a small hole in the wall very easily. You will need to have a few tools and materials on hand before you get started.
We recommend:
- drywall putty
- a flour sack
- sandpaper
- paint to match the wall
- a painter’s knife
First, you’ll need to determine how bad the hole is. If it’s a simple cosmetic hole, the fix will be pretty easy and you may not need to worry about filling the area. However, if you’ve got a pretty large hole, it’s a good idea to stuff something in there to make it easier to fill. A flour sack works very well for this purpose, and can make it easier to get the job done quickly. You may also want to get a special kit from the hardware store that will have filler that can be inserted into the hole.
Once you’ve got the hole filled, it’s time to cover it up. Grab your drywall putty and your painter’s knife and get started. You’ll want to use a spackle motion to apply the putty to the wall. Overlap the hole as you go to create a strong bond. Make sure that you don’t use too much or you’ll end up with a mess on your hand. Too little however and you won’t be able to get the job done. Instead of glopping it on all at once, gradually apply the putty until the area is even and filled in.
Now, you’re going to need to let this dry before proceeding to the next step. It may take a few hours depending on the type of putty you used. Make sure you read the instructions so that you’re not jumping the gun. When the putty is completely dry to the touch, get your sandpaper and smooth out the area. You’ll need to make a few passes to get everything smoothed out and even with the rest of the wall.
Once you’ve finished this, you’ll be able to paint over the area. Most drywall putty is taupe or light brown in color so you won’t have to worry too much about covering it up with paint. If the wall is white, you’re probably going to need to add a few coats to prevent see through. Let the paint dry completely before you quit to make sure that it looks right.
It is important to address a common technique that many people use as a shortcut. If you’ve got a small hole in the wall and you’re a renter, you can easily make it look as though it’s fixed by adding a little white toothpaste to the area. For bigger holes, some people like to try mixing flour and water to create a paste and using a sheet to cover the hole. We don’t recommend this fix since it is not permanent.
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November 12th, 2008 — Flooring, Handy Man, Tile
There is nothing quite like a tile floor. They look nice, they’re pretty easy to maintain and they are reasonably easy to install. You need only a basic amount of do it yourself experience to lay your own floor and it can give you a great feeling of accomplishment when you’re done. You will need a few tools and materials to get started. They include:
- caulk
- floor cement
- lathe
- scraper
- the tiles
- a wetsaw or tile snipper
- some gloves
We also recommend knee pads since you will be spending a lot of time kneeling on the floor and since tiles are hard, this can get pretty painful after awhile.
You’ll need to decide whether to rip out your old floor or put your tile above it. We recommend completely removing the old floor for the best results. If it is an old tile floor, you’ll need to spend some time chipping and chiseling away. For carpet, pull up the carpet and pad, to reveal the subfloor underneath. Sweep up any debris and sand down any rough spots. For floors with linoleum or peel and paste tiles, you’ll need to rip all of these up. It’s actually more work to remove the old flooring than it is to lay the new one, so don’t worry, it gets easier from here.
Once you’ve got the floor bare and prepared (ie: sanded, scrubbed and swept) you’re ready to start. Remember, you don’t want to cement yourself in a corner. Don’t get too carried away - just take it one row at a time. By taking your time and laying each tile carefully, you’ll be a lot happier with the results. Measure off each row and determine how many tiles you’ll be using. This will change since there will be some space in between, so don’t cut any tiles to fit just yet.
Mix your cement and spread it on the subfloor for the first row. Take your first tile and carefully place it into the cement. Press down firmly and move to the next tile. You should leave a little room in between each, but no more than ½ an inch. Put this tile down and continue until you reach the end of row. Ideally, it will be a perfect fit, but this rarely happens. Measure off the space and then either cut the tile in the wetsaw or use your snipper. Place this piece in and move to the next row.
Keep going until you have the whole room finished. If you’re going around curves or fixtures, you may want to get a template to make cutting the tile easier. Plan this out ahead of time so you don’t end up with any surprises. The amount of time it takes for the tile to set will depend on your cement. Make sure that you follow the instructions and leave the floor alone to cure - no activity on it until it is done! Caulk any sides that may come into contact with water, and if necessary, caulk any gaps in between the tiles.
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November 11th, 2008 — Handy Man, Install, Porch, Screen
There is nothing quite like sitting on your porch during a relaxing evening after dinner. Especially if you’re trying to dodge mosquitoes and other nasty little insects. While you may not be able to completely get rid of these insects, there is a way to easily create your own screened in porch and you don’t even need a lot of experience. Most anyone can do this, and it’s well worth the time and effort.
Before you get started, you’re going to need some tools and materials. First, you’ll need enough screening material to completely screen in the porch. Get your square foot measurements and go to your local hardware store for the material. While you’re there it’s also helpful to pick up a utility knife for trimming the screening material.
You’ll Need:
- screening
- framing wood
- chalk
- utility knife
- nails
- hammer
- level
Mark off the area that you want to screen in with your chalk. Try to draw as straight of a line as possible since you will be using this as your guide for your new screens. If your porch already has a roof, you’re already half way done. If not, you’re going to have to add one. Unless you have experience roofing, it is a good idea to call a professional to have this done. This is the only step that requires any professional assistance however.
Once your roof is up, you can begin adding your framing wood. Attach the wood at the top and bottom using screws for a secure fit. Make sure you use that level to plumb and level each piece while you’re at it. Your boards should be placed about four feet apart, or at the most, six feet. When you have the whole perimeter of your porch framed in, you’ll be able to start adding your screening material. Don’t forget you should have a door leading outside for your porch, to make it safe. Frame this in and either make your own screen door, or purchase one from the hardware store.
Cut the material to fit your frames and make sure the edges are nice and neat. You can use the utility knife to get a good, clean edge. Keep in mind you may need to go over it again once it’s installed to clear up any rough edges. Nail in the screening material to the frames, taking special care to avoid any gaps. If you do have an area that has gaps, take some thread that matches the screening material and sew the two pieces together. This is an easy fix that gets quick results.
Once your screening material is in, you’ll want to clean up the rough edges and make sure that everything is secure. You can now sit back and enjoy your time outside without having to swat at bugs. This is an easy project that shouldn’t take more than a weekend to complete if you have basic DIY experience.
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